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120v SSR
120v 'Triggered SSR'
Strobe Light
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120v SSR (Solid State Relay)
This is something I designed...its still in the testing stages
but I've had no problems so far

this is an easy way to add more power handling to an existing
control circuit. It is more expensive than the 'triggered SSR'
version but is a much better option as there is no electrical
connection between the control cirucit and the addon. this results
in less problems, and as a added bonous you can even put it on a
seperate circuitbreaker!

NOTES:
* This will put a small load on the existing control, but it's
still recommended that you put some sort of load (like a single
string of mini lights or a C9 blub) on it...not doing so can
result in malfunction or even destruction of the control

Schematic Triac
parts list:

R1: 10k, 5w
R2: 180
IC1: Diode Bridge: 1a, 200v
IC2: MOC3020
D1: Triac: 4a (or higher if needed) 200v
Sockets for IC1 & IC2 Wood or plastic case
Heatsink for Triac (if you're using more 2 amps)

'Load' is where you attach the lights

Most of these parts should be at your
local electronics store.

Yes, this circuit plugges in twice!...
once for power, once for control.

You can use a standard LED in place of the MOC3020
(on the diode bridge side) to test the circuit's
operation...in fact I highly reccommend you do this
before even building the rest.

Instead of using a single high-wattage resistor for 'R1'
I reccommend using multiple smaller ones (for example
5x 2k-ohm). They will run cooler and be easier to find.



Disclaimer:
all info here is provided as is without warranty of any sort
I can not be held responsible for any problems/damages/injuries/
etc caused by the use or misuse of this info

Warning: read all the following before you continue.

The info on these pages can be DANGEROUS.

Electricity can KILL or INJURE you, be careful and treat it with
full respect.

Electricity can also cause FIRES, again be careful with it.

Never work on any circuit with it turned on or plugged in
If you don't know anything about electronics, don't try to
build these, if you want to learn check with your local
college to see if they offer a class (this is worth doing
anyway)

Some of these circuits still hold enough of a charge to
cause injury or death even when unplugged

There is no guarantee that these actually will work - build
at your own risk

If you know anyone who has epileptic (or other) seizures,
keep them away from these circuits when on, exposure to
the flickering/flashing could trigger it.

Do not use C7 sized lights with these or any circuit that
uses a SCR or Triac to blink them. C7 sized lights have a
flaw in the design that sometimes causes a short when a
bulb dies, normally this is not a problem, but in this case
it will blow the Triac or SCR. (miniture lights, and C9's
are ok

Do not attempt to control fluorescent lights, with any SCR
control circuit. you will at a minimum burn out the bulbs
quickly, but could also very likely fry the ballast which
could cause a fire.

If you have a fluorescent light that is designed to be flashed,
it may be ok on a Triac controled circuit (at a slow flash rate)
...read the light's instructions!
The same is true of Triac controled circuits and SOME dimmable
fluorescents. It does work! I have tested it myself. It is VERY
MUCH dependant on the ballast in the light. There a select few
models of ballasts that are compatable with such a setup.

Products such as Fluorescent Lights increase the 120volts
input up to 800 or volts... while 120volts is easily enough
to cause death, this increased voltage is much more dangerous...
it is even more likely to cause serious burns or DEATH. a
Fluorescent Light should be considered ARMED and DANGEROUS
whenever it is on (whether there are bulbs in it or not)
Fluorescent Lights can also hold a charge even after being
unplugged, (especially if there are no bulbs in it).

If the circuit is going to be exposed outdoors make sure the
case is FULLY weatherprofed. The circuit shown here (especially
if it and the main controller are on different circuitbreakers)
could cause all sorts of big (and extremely dangerous) problems
if it were to get wet!
If possible put it in a shed or garage (not an attic though as
the heat and dust are just asking for trouble)...and run cords
to the lights, this will save the cost and trouble of
weatherprofing.

For the circuits that respond to sound you are going to also
need a place to put a speaker right beside them. A backyard
shed is a good place if it has power, and you can get sound
to it (this keeps the sound 'hidden' - unless for some reason).
you want music playing to the neighborhood)

Some of these circuits can be annoying (part 1)... causing a
slight flicker/dimming throught the entire house. this is
espically true with these 'add-on' circuits, because they
are controlling a heavier load (the more load, the more you
dim your house)

Some of these circuits can be annoying (part 2)... generating
'noise' on the power lines throught your house. this will
show up as static/interferance on TV's and Radios (and that
even includes when listening tape or cd players), as well as
some other electric devices...this is a problem, i'm not sure
what to do about it, but a noise filter may help

To prevent any possible problems Do Not attach these to the
same circuit as your Computer, Stereo, Or TV unless you have
a good line conditioner for it

I did not design any of the circuits here, but I did modify
a few of them to work with standard 120vac

Never overload the control circuit check the wattages page
to get some idea of how much power a set takes

These are only for use with standard 120 volt AC (USA,
Canada, etc.) If you live in a country that uses a
different voltage, do not attempt to use these.
(some can be modified to work with 240v but i won't go
into it here)

Some of these may cause interferance on the TV or Radio.

Computer controls can damage or destroy a computer if not
done correctly

Always have someone double check your work before connecting
power to anything you've worked on.

Electricity and Water do not mix.

Avoid working in any area where flammable products (such as gas/
paint/etc) are stored or used

Do not work with electric items when you are tired, being tired
will only increase the chance of mistakes

Avoid working on electric products if you have consumed any
alcoholic beverages or drugs (medical or otherwise) as these
will impair your ability to concentrate on your work

if you become frustrated while working on something, set it
down and walk away (turn off / unplug any equipment you have
on)

Keep your work area clean and organized. If you work in a room/
area without windows (or work at night) install a automatic backup
light... that way when you blow a circuitbreaker/fuse you will not
be in the dark.

Do not overload Circuits/Extension cords/Lightsets/ Etc

Modifying any electric product WILL VOID any warranty on it

Using any electric product for other than its intended use WILL
VOID any warranty on it

In addition there is a chance you will void your insurance by
using modified or home-built electric items, if that item
causes a problem such as a fire

This is only a partial list of the cautions/dangers there are
many more not listed here (but still apply)

Always remember...
Be safe!
It is not worth risking your life or home over an electric item!

I can not be held responsible for any damage, death, fire,
etc. resulting from the use or misuse of these circuits

This page and the images on it (c) 1999 - 2016 James K